An issue of the Society’s newsletter, transcribed from the original.
(10 pages, 3.5 MB)
the full-resolution scan, 4.3 MB, for close research
Page 1
The Canadian Society for Creative Leathercraft CANADIAN LEATHERCRAFT
Volume LXVII No. 2
Winter 2018 - 2019 0045-5121
In this Edition…
Page 2 Notes from the Editor, Highlights of the past Executive Mtgs, Membership Info, CSCL Larmour Library
Page 3 Your Glove Size
Page 5 Things to Know About Making A Belt
Page 6 – Parts of a Cow Hide
Page 7 The Swivel Knife
©2019 Canadian Society for Creative Leathercraft All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission of the copyright holder is prohibited.
To contact any of our Executive please refer to the CONTACT section of our Website.
Website: www.canadianleathercraft.org
Facebook [Facebook page removed]
President: Lauch Harrison
1st Vice-Pres.: Jim Wilkes
Past President: Jim Wilkes
Treasurer: Della Chynoweth
Secretary: Richard Borrow
Membership:
Editor: Barbara Chynoweth
ECO ( Electronic Communications Officer):
Privacy Officer: Lauch Harrison
Workshops: Lauch Harrison, Jim Wilkes
Page 2 — Notes from the Editor, Highlights of the past Executive Mtgs, Membership Info, CSCL Larmour Library
Note from the Editor….
The Annual Convention is coming up and this year the theme is Western and the Norland Branch is looking forward to welcome you to an enjoyable weekend.
This edition I am covering a review of measurements and information on the swivel knife. I hope that you find new information in the articles and pictures.
The Quarterly Newsletter “Canadian Leathercraft” is your source of information about CSCL and its members. Also check out the CSCL website at www.canadianleathercraft.org and CSCL’s Facebook page.
Highlights from the Past Executive Council Meetings….
Welcome to the world of Skype, the Executive have been holding most of their monthly meetings via Skype this year which means that we do not have to travel any further than our PC to be able to communicate with each other. Plans have been under way for the 69th Annual Convention which Norland Branch is hosting. The Workshop Committee is always looking for suggestions for workshops on things that you would like to learn. Please send in your suggestions.
CSCL Membership Have you paid your membership? It’s a new Membership Year (April 1 to March 31).
- If you are joining trough a branch pay your membership to the Branch Treasurer
- if you are joining as a Member-at-Large or Sustaining Member send your membership payment to the CSCL Treasurer: Della Chynoweth, [address removed], Norland, Ontario [postal code removed]
| General Member | General Member – Student* | Member-at-Large | Sustaining Member |
|---|---|---|---|
| Individuals interested in leathercraft who belong to one of the CSCL Branches. (Need not be a leathercraft person.) $40.00 | A registered full-time student shall pay $5.00 | Individual interested in leathercraft who does not belong to one of the CSCL Branches. (Need not be a leathercraft person.) $40.00 | Commercial Organizations interested in supporting the Society. $100.00 or material equivalent to $100.00. |
CSCL Larmour Lending Library
The CSCL lending Library of Books and Patterns can be referenced on our web site www.canadianleathercraft.org. Head to Gallery and click on CSCL Library of Books and Patterns. Under the Patter option there is 80 pages of patterns that may give you ideas of things to make. Under the Book section there is 13 pages of titles of Books and DVD’s about Leather crafting, design and colour. Remember these patterns and books are there for you to borrow from the library. Select item(s) you would like to borrow and send your list to Paul Kitchener at [email address removed]
Branch Presidents will assist in pickup and delivery of the orders from branch members.
Members-at-large may order directly from Paul and arrange shipping or printing options, fees may apply.
Memberships are due March 31st have you sent yours in.
Page 3 — Your Glove Size
Your Glove Size
To find out your glove size, measure (in inches) around your hand with a tape measure across your palm. You should use your dominant hand, the right if you are right-handed, and the left if you are left-handed.
Glove Size Equivalents
Some manufacturers indicate glove sizes by number and others by letters standing for Small, Medium, Large, etc. We always indicate the size of a pair of gloves the same way the manufacturer does. Use the table at the right to translate between "letter sizes" and "number sizes".
Sizes for UNISEX Gloves and Mittens
- XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL
Circumference of the Hand in Inches 6.5 7 7.5 8.5 9 9.5 10 11
-
Sizes for WOMEN'S Gloves and Mittens
- XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL
Circumference of the Hand in Inches - 6 6.5 7 7.5 8 - --
Sizes for JUNIOR Gloves and Mittens
- XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL
Circumference of the Hand in Inches - 4 4.5 5 5.5 6 6.5 --
Sizes for KIDS Gloves and Mittens
- XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL
Age (Approx.) 6M - 1Y 1-2 2-3 3-4 4-5 5-6 - --
MEN'S SIZES
- XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL
Circumference of the Hand in - 7 7 ½ - 8 8 ½ - 9 9 ½ - 10 10 ½ - 11 11 ½ - 12 -cm - 18 20 23 25 28 30 -A) Measure around the hand at the fullest part (exclude thumb)
B) measure from the tip of the middle finger to the base of the hand
C) Use the LARGEST of these two measurements for the correct size glove
D) If you are RIGHT handed, take measurements from your RIGHT hand
F) If you are LEFT handed, take measurements from your LEFT hand
G) The number of inches measured equals the size of the glove (example: A 7" measurement equals a size 7 glove)
Page 4
GLOVE TERMS
Glove making is an old art and has some terms that may be unfamiliar to even the most ardent glove enthusiast.
Cabretta: A thin, fine leather made from the skin of Brazilian hair sheep.
Cape or
Capeskin: A superior thin leather made from the skin of South African hair sheep.
Clute
Cut: A glove style with a one piece palm with no seam at the base of the finger. There are seams along the fingers on the inside.
Cuff: The cuff is the part of the glove extending beyond the palm that covers the wrist and part of the forearm.
Fourchette: The piece of leather sewn between the fingers on some kinds of gloves. Also known as the sidewall or gusset.
Gauntlet: A very long cuff to protect the forearm.
Grain: The side of the leather that had the hair, i.e. the outside. Full Grain has the original surface, whereas corrected grain has been abraded to make the leather smoother and more uniform.
Gunn
Cut: A glove style with seams at the base of the fingers. The seams between the fingers are on the back of the glove.
Gusset: The piece of leather sewn between the fingers on some kinds of gloves. Also known as the sidewall or fourchette.
Split: When a thick piece of leather is split into two thinner pieces, the top piece will have grain (Top Grain) and the bottom piece will be suede on both sides. The bottom piece is the split.
Welt: A thin piece of leather sewn into the seam to strengthen it. Often a welt is used in the seam at the crotch of the thumb and the base of the finger
It is to be noted that the slashes are longer for the back than for the palm, to conform to the actual shape of the hand. The fourchettes are to be placed to correspond, the longer point on top or back of hand.
Cut half of all pieces in reverse. Sew pairs of fourchettes between fingers. Sew two fourchettes together at diagonal end, right sides together. Pin, seam inside, starting at this seam outward - and point on back of glove - to end of finger. The fourchettes will be too long for shorter fingers and should be trimmed to correct length after stitching. Make 1/8 inch seams on outside of glove. Fold thumb together matching A, B, C and D; sew thumb into glove. Slash hand from A to B, thumb B to C. If inside seams are desired, add 1/8 inch to pattern. Trim seams before turning.
The glove may become a shortie or longer, as desired. Glove lengths are measured in "button lengths," allowing about one inch per button above the base of the thumb seam. Add desired stitching or trim for finishing.
STITCHES
If you do not have a glover's sewing machine then I highly suggest that you make them by hand. You can also use any of the following either as the closing or decorative stitch:
• A Running or stab stitch is the simplest and is the most used, others are • Whipstitch
• Round stitch
• Triple stitch
• Flat stitch
• Saddle stitch
• Knotted Blanket stitch
• Cobbler stitch
Page 5 — Things to Know About Making A Belt
[This page is a vintage instructional diagram, "Things to Know About Making Belts" — reprinted clip art with hand-lettered captions and measurement call-outs — not running prose; the small hand-lettered labels are not readable as running text. Rebuilt below: the three real sentences of running text, then a plain description of what the diagrams themselves show. No names on this page.]
THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT MAKING BELTS
1st in importance is the waist size! Measure around the waist and pull the tape snug, but not too tight. This is the correct waist size.
2nd in importance is the buckle size! Though shapes and sizes may vary, there are basically two common types of buckles: the bar buckle and the hook buckle.
Both the waist size and the buckle size are necessary to obtain the proper belt size. Carefully combine these measurements and you will have little trouble making correctly fitting belts.
The diagrams show how to measure a buckle (its width determines the width of the belt or tapered billet; its length must be included in the waist measure — most buckle widths are made slightly oversize for freedom of strap, approximately 1/32 inch), how to measure an old belt to find the proper waist size (following the contour of the belt with a tape measure, beginning where the buckle tongue rests, and using the most-used hole to fix the new belt's centre hole), and the "Proper Way to Measure a Belt" — labelled drawings of belts with a bar buckle and with a hook buckle, showing the waist measure, the width of buckle and billet (marked 2¾" and 4¾"), the belt loop/keeper allowance (2½" and 3", with a note to taper back 1" and add 2" for two loops), a 1" margin at each end, and a note that hook-type buckles generally need the belt lengthened further from the centre hole to the tip than regular buckles do.
Page 6 — Parts of a Cow Hide
[Diagrams of a full hide and of a "side" (half a cowhide), labelled LEG, FLANK and BELLY, head the page, and a reprinted clipping beside this text carries two more diagrams of a side; their captions are set out below. The clipping prints "equivelant" and "flexable", both kept as printed.]
The hide is divided in different sections: Shoulder, belly and butt.
Shoulder: The shoulder is a softer area of the hide.
Belly: The belly is a stretchy soft leather of varying thickness.
Butt: The butt is the thickest and strongest part of the hide.
Back: Butt + shoulder.
The trade names "butt' and "bend"are sole leather terms.—A "back" is the equivelant of a combined butt and bend. "Sides" and "Backs" refer to the flexable tannages such as STRAP, BAG, CASE and COLLAR LEATHERS.
Showing the location of the four qualities on a side. The Butt section being the first quality.
Page 7 — The Swivel Knife
1. Just a single cowhide skin can produce enough leather to manufacture at least twenty American footballs or eighteen soccer footballs or twelve basketballs.
2. Brazil and the United States are the biggest suppliers of cowhide skins by volume.
3. The best cowhide skins are reputed to come from South America and in particular Columbia.
4. Cowhides are tanned to fix the proteins within the cowhide skin and to prevent the cowhide from deteriorating.
5. The word tanning comes from Medieval Latin tannare meaning oak. The word refers to using oak bark (an original source of tannin) to preserve cowhides and other animal skins.
6. A notable use of cowhide in an animated feature is Woody the cartoon cowboy of Pixar’s Toy Story where he wears a black and white cowhide jacket.
7. You can buy a cowhide animal skin rug or carpet with guilt free conscience as cowhide is a natural by-product of the meat processing business.
8. Chromium tanning is the best way to economically tan cowhides to ensure they are long lasting and durable
THE SWIVEL KNIFE
[An exploded diagram of the swivel knife sits above this paragraph, labelled left to right: Blade, Blade shaft, Set screw, Barrel, Adjusting nut, Locking Spring, Stem, Yoke, Neck.]
The SWIVEL KNIFE is the most important of all the leather carving tools. It has been designed to enable the leather worker to attain the maximum degree of efficiency and skill in cutting the most intricate designs.
The exploded view above shows all of its working parts. When assembled, the yoke provides a rest and pressure point for the index finger to control the depth of the cuts. The adjusting nut varies the length of the knife to fit different hands. The blade shaft inserts into the barrel and is secured by the set screw. The blade, barrel and stem unit turns independently of the neck and yoke. The locking spring supplies tension on the neck, holding it in place when pushed into position on the stem.
Study the following pages carefully. . .learn to use this tool! It is the most important leather working tool that you will ever hold in your hand.
The Swivel Knife BLADE is the “key” to all successful leather carving. The primary purpose of the blade is to cut the outlines of a design or pattern into the leather. The reason for cutting the lines is to give depth to the design. With properly cased leather, the cuts should prominently stand open. . .facilitating the use of the stamping tool operations that follow. It is of paramount importance that the blade be correctly sharpened. The sharpened angle must be correct so that the cut in the leather will not be too wide nor too narrow. The blade must be smoothly stropped so that it glides easily through the leather to perform its function to the greatest degree of efficiency.
Page 8
HOW TO SHARPEN THE SWIVEL KNIFE
Straight Hollow ground %" angle
There are many types and widths of swivel knife blades available to the leather worker for a variety of cutting purposes. Have your leather dealer show and/or explain their uses to you.
To sharpen the blade, use a fine grit oil stone, or the Sapphire DUAL SHARPENER-POLISHER stick. Insert the blade shaft into the barrel of the swivel knife and tighten the set screw with a small screw driver. Grasp the knife as shown...the yoke should be pressed firmly against the palm of your hand. Place the blade on the Sharpener at the correct angle; maintaining this angle is important throughout the sharpening movements. DO NOT rock or roll the blade when sharpening, lest the cutting corners become rounded. Hold the knife firmly and flat...at the correct angle.
SAPPHIRE DUAL SHARPENER - POLISHER
OIL STONE
SHARPENING SIDE
SSS EAU
Polishing Side
Page 9
There are two generally accepted methods of sharpening the blade (see preceding page)...use the method that is easiest and produces the best results for you. Hold the blade firmly against thé Sharpener and apply plenty of pressure.. especially if the blade is very dull or rough. Move the blade briskly back and forth across the Sharpener. Complete one side, then turn the blade over arid sharpen the other side. Hold it FLAT and FIRM! The beveled sides-of -the blade should be perfectly flat and even. The cutting edge should be in the center of the blade. Considerable work may be required to even the beveled edges. Be persistent and as accurate as possible, as this is perhaps the most important part in leather carving. A properly sharpened blade will produce easier and smoother cutting...less fatigue...better results and more leather carving enjoyment.
RIGHT
WRONG
Cutting edge
Cutting
Cutting edge
edge
Cutting edge
This blade was sharpened correctly. The beveled sides are sharpened flat and even. The cutting edge is straight and in the center of the blade.
This blade has the beveled sides unbalanced and uneven. The knife was held at different angles on each side. The angles are wrong and the cutting edge is not in the center of the blade. Resharpen the blade.
[Two diagrams of a sharpened blade stand side by side, a "RIGHT" label over the left-hand one and "WRONG" over the right-hand one, each with its own caption beneath. The first caption ends "...in the center of the blade."; the second reads "...The angles are wrong and the cutting edge is not in the center of the blade. Resharpen the blade."]
STROPPING THE BLADE
When using the regular swivel knife blades, the beveled cutting sides of the blade should be stropped often, during the cutting operations. STROPPING the blade polishes these sides and keeps the blade cutting smoothly, reducing “drag”. Use a rouge board or the POLISHING side of the Sapphire Swivel Knife Sharpener to strop your blade. Hold the knife at the same angle as you do for sharpening. The beveled side of the blade must be flat against the polishing surface. Hold the knife firmly in your hand and PULL IN ONE DIRECTION ONLY. NEVER push the blade when stropping; this destroys the fine cutting edge. Always PULL the blade across the polisher. Turn the blade over to strop the other side.
Strop the blade in one direction only!:
Polishing g side iy
4 Sapphire
Swivel Knife Sharpener
We cannot overemphasize the importance of keeping your blade sharp. As you work your projects, strop your blade often on the Polisher.
Page 10
HOW TO HOLD THE SWIVEL KNIFE
Learn to hold your swivel knife correctly. The way you hold the swivel knife will determine your success in cutting leather. Follow the simple steps below for aid in learning how to hold the swivel knife properly.
Place the knife on your work surface as shown. . .with the length of the blade straight up and down, at 90° angle to the work surface.
Place fingers as shown. Index finger in yoke; thumb at lower part of barrel; little finger against the blade; and 2nd and 3rd fingers on opposite side of barrel.
Since the knife is merely held in the tips of the fingers, it is not in position to be used. Move index finger forward and rest on yoke at first joint of finger, as shown at right.
Move 2nd and 3rd fingers forward to more firmly grasp the barrel. Knife is now in correct position for use.
CAUTION: DO NOT set blade on metal, or any hard or abrasive surface that might damage the cutting edge.